I've been asked to be the Maid of Honor (Matron?) at my girlfriend's wedding on January 30th. She was hesitant to ask, because that meant I'd have to wear a dress... and she didn't know if I'd be willing to do that or not... hahah. She did give me several concessions that made it worth my while to accept - it could be any dress I want, it had to be black (whoot) and I could make it myself if I wanted. Which of course, I wanted.
I'd mocked up the dress itself in muslin, but before I could do any further work on the dress design, I had to get the petticoat done. It turned out to be an easy enough task, except for having to wrangle around 10 yards of tulle and lace. I have waaay more appreciation for Jinx the tutu queen (MTCoffinz.etsy.com) now that I've wrestled with the tulle ;)
I wanted the tulle to be hidden under the lace. I'm not a big fan of tulle, so I thought the lace might make a nicer front face. I basically made three patterns - a 12.5 X 9 inch rectangle for the top (yoke) tier, a looooonger 20 X 23 inch rectangle for the middle tier, and a smaller 20 X 12 rectangle for the third tier.
I cut two of the first yoke tier pattern on the fold along the 9 inch side, and sewed them together to form a circle, again with the seam on the 9 inch side. I serged the top edge, then folded it under about an inch and a half. I sewed it around the edge to form the elastic pocket, and threaded the elastic through.
For the tulle underlayer, I cut 3 of the second tier pattern on the fold on the 23 inch side, and sewed them together. Then cut 6 of the third tier pattern on the fold on the 12 inch side, and sewed them together. I gathered the top of the third tier and sewed it to the second tier. I then pinned it loosely to the yoke so I could test the length...
For the lace top layer, I used the same patterns in the same manner as above, except that I cut a continuous piece from the lace for the full length of each tier, as I did not want a lot of seams showing on the lace. I'd cut out one piece of the pattern, then move the pattern over and keep cutting, until I'd move the pattern 6 times for the second tier, and 12 times for the bottom tier. This took about 10 yards of lace. I used the scalloped selvage on the lace as the bottom hem for the third tier. Might as well use what's already provided :D
I gathered and sewed the lace layer the same way as the tulle, then I gathered both the lace layer and the tulle layer at their top, then sewed both to the yoke bottom. This was a LOT of work to keep straight, as you can see:
So here is the *finished* petticoat. I say *finished* because it turned out to be about 1.5 inches too long for me, so I have to adjust the yoke tier for that. Also, I haven't finished the seam between the yoke tier and the lace/tulle. It's all sewed up, but not serged and topstitched yet, as I think I might want to add another underlayer of black broadcloth to make the petticoat opaque. I haven't decided yet.
It's still pretty damn angry...
The dress is next :D